22 April, Pistol Ridge

Kerry gave me pics of this day! Hooray, Kerry!

The gang camped (happy fire with marshmallows and whiskey!) Saturday & had a great time at Pistol Ridge on Sunday.

Right after we arrived at the crag, the others convinced me to lead a 5.9 sport route whose name I didn't even know, and then wandered off to hang ropes elsewhere. Before he left I showed Eric a section of the route where I couldn't see any bolts. He said something like, "Yeah, I think that's why it's an R," and then walked away. An "R" rating on a route means there is some danger to the leader's physical self, in the same way that an "R" rating on a movie means there is danger to her purity and righteousness. Usually it indicates the presence of a sizable subsection with no protection.

But Eric was gone. "Did he say this is an R?" I asked Alice, who had agreed to belay me. She didn't know. I gotta bring my guidebook next time.

The route was fun but challenging. There is a hard bit above the second bolt, and Alice held me repeatedly while I tried this and that to get past it.

Then in the middle of the route, there is a bolt in an odd little cave where I almost took a nap, and then the blank section. Above the cave is a yoga move to get to what is essentially walking, then stemming across a narrow but deep crevice, then finally another bolt and more face & arete climbing. Not so bad except for the ankle-breaking chances. The route then goes on and on, and was as fun an interesting as it sounds -- except that I was so tired.

I now know the name of the route: It's a Wonderful Life. Amen to that.

We don't have photos of it, though.

They hung a bunch more ropes and we climbed all day. The next two are a trad line called the X Files.

First Eric...

And then Kerry!

Bill hung the rope on X-files. It has something like three alternate starts, but the most direct start was thin, a little overhung, and I don't think it has much protection. Scary stuff, especially given its rating. I would like to try it again on lead, but NOT! using that start.


I was so tired when we got back to the cars that I laid down in the (unpaved) road. Doug didn't photograph that (thank goodness), but he took several nice pics of us looking dazed. Here we are!


Then Eric wouldn't let me in the car because I was so dusty.